Pool tiles.

Waterline vs full pool lining. The waterline tile (the strip at the water surface) is the most visible tile on a pool. It catches splashing, chemical variation, and light. Pool-floor tiles require full submerged rating. Pool surrounds and coping need to be slip-rated and UV-stable.

Mosaic for the pool interior. Mosaic tiles (50×50mm, 100×100mm) are the traditional pool tile. They flex slightly with the pool shell movement, accommodate curves at the pool base, and provide good grip underwater. Glass mosaic adds sparkle; ceramic mosaic is more forgiving on budget.

Porcelain for the pool surround. Large-format porcelain pavers (600×600, 600×1200) around the pool edge read luxuriously and are easy to maintain. They must be anti-slip rated (R11 or P4/P5 for pool areas) and UV-stable.

Colour and the water. The tile colour dramatically affects how the pool water reads. Whites and light blues produce a bright aqua water colour. Dark blues and grey-greens produce a deep lagoon effect. Order samples and test them submerged in a bucket of water.

Always use a pool-rated adhesive. Standard tile adhesive will fail in constant-submerged conditions. Use a two-part epoxy adhesive or a flexible, water-resistant cement-based adhesive rated for pool use. Your pool tiler will specify the correct system.

Grout for pool tiles.Epoxy grout is the standard for pool interiors. It's chemically resistant, waterproof, and won't absorb algae or staining. For pool surrounds (above water), a quality cement-based grout sealed after installation is acceptable.

Expansion joints. Pools move. The shell expands and contracts with temperature. Every pool tiling job requires expansion joints at regular intervals, typically every 3–4 metres. Never skip these.

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